Jeremiah Blatz ([info]jeremiahblatz) wrote,
@ 2008-12-04 00:12:00
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Adventures in Modern Cooking: Steak Sous-vide
Short version: Sous-vide is the real fuckin' deal.

So, one day I was trawling along the information super-tubes, and I stumbled upon a video (Normal Person vs ... Gordon Ramsay) on Kamikaze Cookery. This site combines three things I love dearly: geekiness, cooking, and merciless snark, so I watched their "The Perfect Steak" episode, whose title should be sufficiently descriptive.

So, the theory of cooking steak is that you want the outside to be burned, but the inside to be as closed as possible to 55 degrees C. The obvious solution, if you think about it for more than a couple seconds, is to hold it in a 55 deg C environment for sufficient time for it to get heated through, then you quickly cook the outside with something ridiculously hot. The way they did it is by vacuum-bagging it, then immersing the bag in a pot of water held at the correct temperature. That's the sous-vide ("under vacuum" in French) bit. Then they went at it with a blowtorch.

As you would know if you thought about it more for more than a few seconds, this actually works quite well. The main downside is that it takes a long time to heat the subject. The good news is that to long shouldn't be a problem at all (what're you going to do, overcook it?). I guess the other downside is that you need to have very precise control over you stove, and it needs to go extremely low.

So, for my experiment I bought a small, cheap piece of terrible steak. I used this guide to sous-vide cooking for detailed instructions, the tables of cooking times were quite handy. I put it in a freezer bag (don't try to use a non-freezer bag, it will end poorly), sucked the air out with a vacuum, and plopped it in the water bath. I had good luck keeping track of the water temperature by hanging my thermometer across a pair of tongs that were laid (locked closed) across the top of the pot. I checked the temperature every 10 minutes or so, easy as pie. (Well, quite a bit easier, actually.) I finished it with a kitchen torch, which actually kinda sucked (stupid safety features).

The terrible steak was the best terrible steak I ever ate. It was ridiculously juicy, and perfectly cooked. Obviously, it was terrible steak, but the point is well-proved. I think next time I'll try finishing it in a hot pan, then hitting the sides with the blow torch. First off, you can fake a sauce, and secondly, it'll be easier on my hands.

I took some pics of the process, sorry I don't have anything of the finished steak, we were extremely hungry.



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[info]mg4h
2008-12-07 05:26 am UTC (link)
I have to try this sometime, but I'm not yet comfortable enough with it to do so. In the meantime, I'll have to live with Pittsburgh rare steaks.

Mmmm, meat.

But I have heard it's really really good....

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[info]jeremiahblatz
2008-12-07 03:20 pm UTC (link)
It's really easy. Look, the Kamikaze Cooks can't even run a proper double-blind scientific experiment, and they managed it! :-)

Also, theoretically speaking, pgh rare is actually a suboptimal cooking strategy, as you do want the inside to be a little cooked. Not that, you know, theory should dictate opinion.

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[info]mg4h
2008-12-07 03:55 pm UTC (link)
It's that whole botulisim thing, it worries me.

And the best Pittsburgh rare steaks I've had had the middle warmed through - just enough to think about cooking, and definitely enough to break down the meat just a little - but not enough to do much else.

I still remember the place that claimed they knew how to do it, and instead Cajun blackened two perfectly nice filet mignons. ACK!

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[info]jeremiahblatz
2008-12-08 02:29 am UTC (link)
Perhaps the quality of phg rare cooking is so low that I had in incorrect view of it. I thought the inside was supposed to be sashimi-like, whereast the outside was just blackened. Anyway, the Kamakazi guts used a blow-torch to sear the outside, I think that will do a decent enough job on those microscopic bad guys!

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[info]mg4h
2008-12-08 02:50 am UTC (link)
Depending on who you talk to, but the best ones were just warm in the middle - nothing more. Not really cooked, but no longer cold, and tender as anything. The outside is seared, sometimes actually black, but the only requirement is that it's not oozing any fluids when you get it - the pan should have been hot enough to sear them in, making a really good steak.

I don't have a hot enough griddle to do it right at home, not quite yet. I'm... pondering my options. Perhaps someday.

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