Jeremiah Blatz ([info]jeremiahblatz) wrote,
@ 2008-12-09 23:38:00
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Adventures in Modern Cooking: Steak Sous-vide Mk II
On Sunday, I made steak sous-vide again, but this time I stepped it up a bit.

To start with, I bought a nice piece of hanger steak from Whole Foods. It was scarcely more expensive than the pathetic waste of cow I got at Gristides the time before. Hrmph. I'm not sure hanger steak is such a great idea for low-temperature cooking, since it pulls apart and pathogens could theoretically get inside the little ribs that open up. I decided to risk it.

The other big change this time was that I adapted a little-used attachment to my vacuum to work better for sucking air out of bags. I got some thinnish food-safe tubing and heat-shring tubing at Home Depot, wrapped gaffer's tape around the end of the tubing, then used the heat-shring tubing to attach it ti the end of the vacuum attachment. This worked really, really well. I could stick then hose far into the bag and suck next to the meat. Note that is is very important to use freezer bags, `cause regular storage bags can't take the strain. I paid like $4 for the parts, and it took me no more than half an hour to build and test the whole thing. Also note that zip-lock (even brand name) freezer bags appear to be cheaper than the bag rolls for the store-bought vacuum sealers, at about $0.25 per square foot, as opposed to $0.40.

Another thing I did differently was to use some "whiskey rub" that I received from my in-laws instead of some salt & pepper. This was a mistake. I later learned that one of the reasons restaurants love sous-vide is that you need much less spice, thus they can make truffle-infused whatever for much cheaper. I used far too much rub. Furthermore, it had whole peppercorns, which would've been a little much. Lastly, it contained dried rosemary, which was not re-hydrated in cooking, as the steak kept its juices. I ended up brushing the spice rub off the steak, and it was still too strongly-flavored. So, stick with a little salt and pepper, and a few fresh herbs.

The last thing I did differently was to pan-sear the steak. This worked really well. When you're searing your meat, unless it's really fatty, you need to add fat to make the outside all nice. If you're using a torch, rub the meat with oil. I just heated some olive oil (non-extra-virgin, which handles heat better) in the pan and seared all sides of the steak using a pair of tongs. I used the discarded spice rub and the minimal drippings to prepare a shallot and red wine sauce (loosely based on this one). The sauce was quite good.

I served the steak with mashed potatoes and green beans with smoked paprika and toasted almonds, both from Cooks Illustrated. Aside from the disappointment of the over-peppered steak, everything was delicious.

Sous-vide hanger steak, mashed potatoes, and green beans Dinner

Vacuum attachment for home preparation of cryovaced foods Vacuum attachment for home preparation of cryovaced foods

To conclude, sous-vide is the real fuckin deal.



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[info]xthlcm
2008-12-10 01:57 pm UTC (link)
I haven't been following these experiments -- what did you use for the bath? Did you roll your own or use an off-the-shelf product?

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[info]jeremiahblatz
2008-12-11 03:45 am UTC (link)
A pot of water, with a thermometer hanging between the arms of a pair of tongs. My stove goes really, really low, which makes this work quite well.

Doing it in the oven is generally contraindicated. If you're feeling like propping up the economy, you can by a thermostatic controller kit for $99 that turns an electric heat source on and off.

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